Thursday, February 7, 2008

Thursday dinner or home home on the range.

Tonights 2 course meal

One is the traditional bean & bread soup of Florence called Ribollitato (means reboiled) and the recipe (the beans must be cooked already).

The other is mine. Veal polpette with rosemary & lemon, inspired by the wonderful meats of Tuscany. Simple as can be because you do not want to interfere with the fantastically fresh ingredients.

Veal polpette: 1/2 pound rough ground veal (best you can get), 1/2 lemon zest and juice, 1.5 teaspoons fresh ground (equal parts) rosemary and sea salt, 2 grinds black pepper.
Mix and form into 2" balls.
Heat enough olive oil in small pot to cover halfway the polpettes. When at fry temp. add meatballs and fry till just brown on both sides. Remove and rest on paper towels to remove oil.

Presentation: Very thin slices of lemon, short 2" sprigs fresh rosemary. place one slice lemon on each polpette then skewer on top with rosemary sprigs. The lemon juice will seep down into the polpette. Enjoy.

By the way, I've had two 2003 Chianti classico reserve and it seems to be an amazing year.
Try these two companies: Antinori & Leandro.

Praise the lord!

Friends, brethren, a miracle happened ealry this morning. Raise up your hands!

Still feeling ill, I dragged my sorry ass out of bed and off to the restaurant for work. Walking down the street I looked up and there it was, my vision burning bright through the lifting fog...the Golden Cross. I experienced a miracle. Felt fine and hungry and for the first time in days. Off I went to observe, to write, to EAT! Halleluja!

(Disclaimer: The writer is Jewish and in no way means any disrespect to his fellow brethren or people of the Christian faith. No Catholics were harmed during the writing of this blog. Foods were eaten, napkins dirtied & shop keepers paid.)


After a morning watching the chefs at Trattoria Mario I headed off to shop for dinner at the market. The air was filled with a wonderful aroma. Boiled beef sandwiches dipped in au jus. Had to get me one and a glass of wine of course. Bolito carne panino to be exact.



Next I went to Beatrice's Tripe cart outside the central market for lampredotto. Say it with me now "a tripe stew made from abomasum" Trust me, it's delicious. Hearty, lots of good flavor and the best salsa verde at the market. Then off to a cafe for some espresso and Baci.

Heading back to my flat I stopped at Trattoria Marios to discuss some things and stayed for lunch at their insistence. Potato ravioli with sugo di carne followed by a small order of Peposo. Mario's version is a family secret which I cannot reveal but Diva's version is fantastic.


I'd do more but now zzzzz............

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Carnival kids


The sun is out and it's Carnival time in Plaza Santo spirito.




Looks like fun. Forgot my Maximus costume.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

A test of manhood...

In the midst of a week at Trattoria Mario. Asking questions & writing down recipes. Problem is I've got a nasty cold. Can't sleep or eat much nor do I want to. Everything was going along fine this morning until Romeo (chef / owner) hands me a snack of raw sausage on bread (description). Now I know this is fine to eat and actually tastes pretty good but with this cold I don't think I can do it. Can't eat bread let alone this. But the chef is offering me a taste something from his kitchen, his family, his own hand. It's one of those moments. My manhood, my cheffiness (?), possible international relations are on the line. America doesn't need another blow right about now....I do it, thank Romeo and eat it like I love it. What else was I to do? Take one for the team, that's what.

Haven't eaten much else today. Let's see what tomorrow brings. The special on wednesday is breaded beef fillets in tomato sauce. Hope I can do it. I love that dish.

Monday, February 4, 2008

Monday night dinner.

Another cold and wet day. Looks like a big hearty meal of pasta to the rescue. Decided on a Meat sauce recipe from Judy Witts @ Divina cucina. We did this one in class with her last week (more about that later). I also wanted to create something new for a starter; Crostini with sliced egg over anchovy butter. Very pleased with the results. Tasty too.

Tonight's ingredients.




The results

Antipasti: Sliced egg over anchovy butter crostini

Hard boil 1 egg and slice. Mash 2 tbsp butter, 1/4 lemon juice, 1 anchovy fillet, 2 turns cracked pepper. Sliced bread squares.


Primi: Rigatoni with sugo di carne.

Recipe

Stay tuned for more meals, pics and adventure. Go Giants! Was that a great 4th quarter or what?


Sunday, February 3, 2008

Dario's for Sunday lunch


Welcome to Panzano in Chianti. Home of three things, Vineyards, Dario's Antica Macelleria Cecchini + his new restaurant SOLOCICCIA. A modern restaurant built into an old building across the street from the Macelleria (butcher shop).

Yes, that's right. There is a group of men serenading Dario, his customers and people walking by. It's surreal. I'm told it's quite customary here. It's like a little Felini film but with meat and friends instead of breasts and midgets.

The butcher shop just closed, usually it's packed with customers who also happen to be neighbors and friends. Even if you walk in for the first time you will be greeted warmly and most likely offered some wine and meaty snacks. Look at the 3 rolls of wonderful lovely porchetta. Look at the simple display. He only has two animals served in his shop, the best cows and pigs available. They use every bit to produce simply made and high quality products. The only other products for sale seem to be his butchers blend salt (rosemary, pepper and sea salt) and a red pepper jelly that is out of this world. I know the creator but as of now that may be private info.



SOLOCICCIA offers only family style meals consisting of a 30 euro 6 course meat tasting menu with vegetables, wines, cake, coffee and digestif. Based on local cuisine and Dario's whim.
Click on the image below to see his welcome message & todays menu. I am too full to translate.


One dish was seared fillets of Florentine steak. It was amazing. the meat was perfect and barely cooked. Actually almost raw inside but the meat is so good and safe it is always eaten that way here. Slight char on the outside, thin line of cooked greyish coloring and then roast beef red. No blood because there are no chemicals or steriods in the cow to retain water (or so I am told).

Just know that as you taste it, you will instantly know you have never eaten proper, correct beef before this. The taste, my god, the taste of it. Full, lean, soft meaty flavor. The rest of the dishes included boiled beef salad with celery and fennel, seared barely ground beef studded with rosemary branch, breaded beef fillet with ragu, fried beef fillets with fried red onions and fennel crostini with ground meat. All you need is a glass of chianti reserve and some friends.
Speaking of friends, I was there with some new ones. This pic was taken in Dario's butcher shop after our 2 hour lunch.
from the left:

Walter & Manuel. Both managing directors of Filippo Berio of the UK and Florence offices.
Dario Cecchini. Proprietor, Master butcher, World famous personality.
Jonathan. Your guide
Daniel D. Friend of Judy (Divinacucina). Living in Florence. Sculptor by way of San Fransisco. He took the bus with me up from Florence. My guide for the day. Good man, good appetite.
R. Forget his name but this is the guitar hero and lead singer from outside the shop.

As we sat down to lunch at a table set for 14, Walter and Manuel sat next to us and we struck up a conversation. Thankfully we all spoke English. After a few minutes Manuel broke out a superb bottle of Marchese Antinori, Chianti classico riserve 2003. Is that a great new friend or what? Spent the meal talking about the wines, foods and travel of Italy. They even drove us back to Florence but since they were late for the big game (Florence vs. Milan), they dropped us off at the stadium. No worries, we hopped a train 1 stop to Florence and I was home by 815pm. I know they will be reading this. Thanks again for a excellent day in the country and thank you for all the suggestions.

Lunch at 1pm-3pm. Then we 4 sat down with Dario to hang out, drink wine and chat about things. Mostly in Italian with some translation from the guys. Mostly Dario talking till 530pm. He even gave us each a bottle of fine chianti to take home. What a day.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Let's talk raw.

So you know how everything meat needs to be treated like a a Biowarefare experiment? How we hear about salmanella and e coli in the good ol' USofA, well let me tell you something my friends. It don't have to be that way. Over here in Italy meats are so fresh, raised so cleanly (ok, no research just observations and talking with local chefs) and so respected that you can eat it raw... seriously.... Look at it....

That's raw pork sausage folks over fresh stracchino cheese ( milk from tired cows!!). I ate it. Oy would my grandma strike me dead. If you don't think about it you taste the best Italian sausage meat and a creamy smooth cheese. Wonderful. Tried it two times. Enough for me but just shows how great quality lets you do interesting things.




And here we have a famous dish called Lardo from Master butcher Dario Cecchini (of HEAT fame) in Panzano. If you don't get the reference then google it. He's the man.

A silver tub of pure white whipped lard with ground rosemary/pepper and salt mix plus some red wine vinegar and garlic paste. So clean and white and pure. Spread on some bread and there you go. Absolutely delicious and melts on your tongue.

Fri Feb 1st. A day, a perfect day.

Started the day waiting on a street corner at 5am for Stefano and Manuel (father & son), part of a family run shop called Conti at the Mercarto Centrale. Sellers of fine produce & food products. A beautiful family. They took me on the wholesale market run to pick up supplies. Picture a warehouse the size of two football fields. One for each type. Produce, meats, fish and flowers. Plus old men in the parking lot selling organic herbs and vegetables from their own gardens.




And now, the produce. Mostly from Sicily, some organic, all fresh and gorgeous. Stephano had the vendors give me samples of many different oranges. Seem to be developing an addiction for the stuff. By the way, all the produce looks like this. Everything pops out at you, vibrant and fresh. All you need is a knife and something to cook on.






The guys told me stories of their families. The shop Conti has been in their family for 4 generations. Stefano Conti hunts whatever is in season with friends at a hunting cabin in Puglia. Manuel and his sister Stella both study business and have modeled part time. The wife, Grazia is lovely and pretty much runs the whole operation. They will be opening a shop in San Francisco this year plus a USA retail website.

Back to the market and then home for a nap by 7am.

At 10am Will (25yr old chef friend. The future great chef of America and currently private chef for a billionaire in NYC. ) and I headed off for shopping. A kitchen shop for roasting pan and utensils to round out my kitchen needs. Then back to Mercarto centrale for ingredients. At Stefano's shop I purchased unfiltered olive oil, black truffle honey, fennel pollen, 15yr balsamic vinegar, sea salt, canned tomatoes, two fresh pastas and produce for the nights dinner. Then another shop for aged parmesan and anchovies in oil.

Previously in the week had gone to Divino, a small shop with bulk supplies. You bring in bottles and they fill them. Picked up vin santo, red wine vinegar and red wine. All for cooking. Great place with 3 lovely ladies. Grandma (Nonna), Patricia her daughter and Sara the niece.

Casa del Vino
A perfect establishment for wines and small dishes of panini and crostini. More on that later. For now I purchased a bottle of Fruili Pino Grigio from Gianni the owner and wine master. He has a wine cellar that would blow you away. Food too. Stop in for a snack and glass of wine sometime. Standing room only.



Lunch at Trattoria Mario right on Plaza Mercarto Centrale. This is the place I will be observing at for a week starting Monday.

A moment is needed to talk about my mentor and chef instructor Judy Witts of Divina cucina.
We booked her for a 4 day class to see, learn, taste and cook all things Florentine. More about her in a separate blog. For now know that she helped me over 4 months to create this trip, advise me on an apartment to rent and places to visit. While here she has taken us on a tour of Tuscany to meet the great local restaurant and shop owners. Walked us all over Florence to meet the locals, the best purveyors and what to know for an extended stay. Worth every cent and a wonderful person to befriend.


And now for my first dinner in the apartment
(located 3 blocks from the Duomo and 6 blocks from Mercarto Centrale. )

Primo

Parmesan cheese with black truffle honey and 15yr balsamic vinegar.

Secondi

The ingredients for a no stir Artichoke risotto with no cream.

2 artichoke hearts cleaned and sliced thin
2 shallots minced
1 garlic clove minced
3 leaves sage chiffon
2 cups aborio rice 1 cup whine wine
3 cups water or vegetable broth.
2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil grated parmesan cheese
Salt and little pepper to taste
Fresh grated lemon zest to tast.

In med pan. Saute shallot and then garlic in 1/2 the butter & oil. Add artichokes & sage, saute.
Add rice then stir to mix with oil then the water and wine. Let simmer 14 minutes. Taste, should be just done. Add remaining butter, olive oil plus grated parm, salt and pepper to taste. You want the fats and cheese to cream the dish. If you want cream then now is the time to add some. Now add a little lemon zest to perk up the dish.




The dinner. Don't forget the wine.
Dessert was dark chocolate bark with hazelnuts from Vestri

Friday, February 1, 2008

Gelato. What a country!

Welcome to Florence Italy. This journey is about the foods to be found here. During the month I will be studying with chefs, touring the countryside and cooking the local cuisine. Please sit back, return your seat to a reclined position and enjoy.

To keep this blog on track I wanted to set some guidelines.
1. Yes there are historical sites to see but this is a food fantasy come true so the food is the focus.
2. Museums, churches, palaces and statues are all well and good BUT we all know how crappy the food is at such touristy establishments.
3. I promise as your guide to keep this blog on what matters. Cooking.
4. The following images are a courtesy to those who want to see what else Florence has to offer. This will hopefully be the only basic tourist pics of the blog. Look at them quickly and then move on. Nothing delicious here.

There ya go. It's David courtesy of Mr. Michaelangelo and sculpted from 1501 to 1504. Quite amazing in person but not delicious. Put some shorts on for Pete's sake.











You can't get away from this thing. It's 3 blocks from my apartment.

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore is the cathedral church (Duomo) of Florence, Italy. The basilica is notable for its dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, its exterior facing of polychrome marble panels in various shades of green and pink bordered by white. The first stone was laid on September 9, 1296 . The building of this vast project was to last 170 years, the collective efforts of several generations. Duomo does not mean delicious in Italian. Please step to your right, make room for others and let's move on to more important things......


And now for our first food story. Gelato folks, it's delicious. Cold, creamy, subtle flavors (no preservative and fake ingredients) and oh so good. To keep myself focused I have only been trying pistachio, hazelnut and almond. Here are three of the best shops in Florence.

Vivoli. Old school gelato by Santa Croce.


Grom, it's everywhere. Organic too.


Vestri is mainly a chocolate shop with their own coco plantation in the Dominican republic. Think about that. Truffles, Italian hot chocolate, gelato AND a plantation on a tropical island. And no, they are not accepting applications. My friend Will had a half hazelnut gelato and half hot chocolate. Don't think anything more needs to be said about that.

That's it for now folks. Stay tuned for a map with all the listings, more stories and pics of all the dishes to be cooked. 2nd blog will be tonight's dinner (feb 2 '08) My first cooked meal. The 3rd post will be a recap of the first weeks adventure.

Please keep in touch. Ciao, Jonathan

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Some clients

Heidi Klum, Victoria's secret


Adriana Lima, Victoria's secret.


Alton Brown, Food Network.