My mentor in Florence.

Months before, while planning my trip, I contacted & booked Judy Witts at Divina Cucina, (found her in Bon Appetite magazine). An American living in Florence who knows the ins and outs of life there. She helped me plan my month's stay, pick a neighborhood to rent an apartment, complete a pack list of kitchen equipment to bring along and generally held my hand through the process of fulfilling a chefs fantasy; To live and cook in Florence!

The view from Michaelangelo hill, Florence.

The main event with Judy was a 3 day class (along with another chef friend and my brother who visited for the 1st week). This included a market and neighborhood tour each morning followed by cooking a 3-4 course menu at her kitchen studio close by. She is an experienced chef who has done it all, a serious plus over many of the other tours in town. We met and befriended many of the shop owners. Tasted their wares and talked food, life and Italy. This process enabled me to return day after day when shopping for my own meals. Their help was invaluable and I formed new friendships that will last a long long time. More on these shop owners in another posting, stay tuned.

We decided to book an excursion for our first full day in Florence together. Judy drove us out to Chianti. We toured the back roads through villages, vineyards and farm land. The highlight was a stop at Antica Macelleria Cecchini where we met Dario Cecchini of "Heat" fame. More about Dario here. We then stopped along the way for walks, pictures and snacks. Met wonderful people and sampled terrific cured meats, paninis and wines

Paolo Gaeta. Proprietor of Il Vinaio, Panzano in Chianti.

And God blessed the espresso...


3 panini @ Il Vinaio: Grappa, fennel salami, pecorino. Vin santo, cooked ham and parmagiano. Vin santo, proscuitti and parmesan.

Church steps. Panzano alto, Chianti.

Metal dragon on wall. Panzano alto, Chianti.

What can I say? Divina Cucina made this chef's dream a reality. Judy's knowledge, recipes and tours have been amazing. She has continued to be of help with restaurant, recipe and shop advice.

It's been only 21 days and yet it feels like years . I can have the wine shop owner pick the perfect wine for each dish, the produce/ gourmet food shop family select my ingredients and the butcher preps the correct meat after we discuss what is to be cooked. Feels like home to me.

Dario's for Sunday lunch

Welcome to Panzano in Chianti. Home of three things, Vineyards, Dario's Antica Macelleria Cecchini + his new restaurant SOLOCICCIA. A modern restaurant built into an old building across the street from the Macelleria (butcher shop).

Yes, that's right. There is a group of men serenading Dario, his customers and people walking by. It's surreal. I'm told it's quite customary here. It's like a little Felini film but with meat and friends instead of breasts and midgets.

The butcher shop just closed, usually it's packed with customers who also happen to be neighbors and friends. Even if you walk in for the first time you will be greeted warmly and most likely offered some wine and meaty snacks. Look at the 3 rolls of wonderful lovely porchetta. Look at the simple display. He only has two animals served in his shop, the best cows and pigs available. They use every bit to produce simply made and high quality products. The only other products for sale seem to be his butchers blend salt (rosemary, pepper and sea salt) and a red pepper jelly that is out of this world. I know the creator but as of now that may be private info.



SOLOCICCIA offers only family style meals consisting of a 30 euro 6 course meat tasting menu with vegetables, wines, cake, coffee and digestif. Based on local cuisine and Dario's whim.
Click on the image below to see his welcome message & todays menu. I am too full to translate.

One dish was seared fillets of Florentine steak. It was amazing. the meat was perfect and barely cooked. Actually almost raw inside but the meat is so good and safe it is always eaten that way here. Slight char on the outside, thin line of cooked greyish coloring and then roast beef red. No blood because there are no chemicals or steriods in the cow to retain water (or so I am told).

Just know that as you taste it, you will instantly know you have never eaten proper, correct beef before this. The taste, my god, the taste of it. Full, lean, soft meaty flavor. The rest of the dishes included boiled beef salad with celery and fennel, seared barely ground beef studded with rosemary branch, breaded beef fillet with ragu, fried beef fillets with fried red onions and fennel crostini with ground meat. All you need is a glass of chianti reserve and some friends.

Speaking of friends, I was there with some new ones. This pic was taken in Dario's butcher shop after our 2 hour lunch.
from the left:

Walter & Manuel. Both managing directors of Filippo Berio of the UK and Florence offices.
Dario Cecchini. Proprietor, Master butcher, World famous personality.
Jonathan. Your guide
Daniel D. Friend of Judy (Divinacucina). Living in Florence. Sculptor by way of San Fransisco. He took the bus with me up from Florence. My guide for the day. Good man, good appetite.
R. Forget his name but this is the guitar hero and lead singer from outside the shop.

As we sat down to lunch at a table set for 14, Walter and Manuel sat next to us and we struck up a conversation. Thankfully we all spoke English. After a few minutes Manuel broke out a superb bottle of Marchese Antinori, Chianti classico riserve 2003. Is that a great new friend or what? Spent the meal talking about the wines, foods and travel of Italy. They even drove us back to Florence but since they were late for the big game (Florence vs. Milan), they dropped us off at the stadium. No worries, we hopped a train 1 stop to Florence and I was home by 815pm. I know they will be reading this. Thanks again for a excellent day in the country and thank you for all the suggestions.

Lunch at 1pm-3pm. Then we 4 sat down with Dario to hang out, drink wine and chat about things. Mostly in Italian with some translation from the guys. Mostly Dario talking till 530pm. He even gave us each a bottle of fine chianti to take home. What a day.